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南澳屠龍樂園外加inside ㄧ萬噸TNT大爆炸

喊黑龍還不夠,這次要喊巨龍、巨龍、巨龍來了!!!!!!

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這二週去了南澳六次, 11/9(日)、11/11(二)、11/12(三),11/18(二)、11/19(三)、11/20(四)。
秋冬了,比較空閒了,應該放鬆來衝個浪,想不到不是放鬆而是放肆地ㄧ口氣給他衝那嚜多天。越衝興致越高,越衝士氣越高。

11/9~11/14之間 波浪預報都是紅紫黃綠色ㄧ帶,浪高大致在四五米左右,ㄧ直想去台東回味之前過年的好浪。
星期天下午挪出了空檔與動木、剔牙、簡宣隨其他人之後去了南澳。浪約一人多、有力,稍亂、浪型普通。記得那天有一道約一人多的浪要潛越過去,潛到一半忽然板子被往上抽,人也被往上吸,變成背向式人與板被浪回拉,腰瞬間往後折,瘠髓差點散掉。頓時~~~喔~~~這就是南澳的威力!! 

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沒多久比我們稍早到的蔡小彬上岸了,原來是他的firewire斷了,號稱不會斷版的firewire竟然給他衝斷了,真是蔡小彬厲害還是南澳浪厲害。

後來再沒多就我依道浪歪爆、我跟版疊在一塊在水裡翻滾,fin卡到我的背,回神後一看fin斷了,摸一摸背還好沒事,這大概是我第二十次斷fin吧,我已經沒啥感覺了。上岸收工。 1817644956

 因為南澳浪型不是很優所以還存有星期一到三要去台東的打算。
星期一約了ㄧ堆人,沒人可去台東,後來還是退而求其次星期二(11/11)與為格、豬肉榮、巧遇阿志又去了南澳。

11/11當日波浪預報4.8~5.1公尺,到了南澳,遠遠看,ㄟ~有浪ㄟ、型優ㄟ、ㄧ人多,海上都沒人,越走越靠近後,喔~浪好像一人半以上喔~

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 豬肉榮一到了岸邊說~那…….那我先去大個便紓解一下壓力,你們先下吧!!!。有圖有真相,無魚蝦也好,於是我拿了我的手機給他,請他大完便用我的手機拍個幾張照代表我們來過。下水後發現這浪!!不只一人多、不只一人半,巨龍一條接一條進來,浪頭都約二人高,龍口張得大大的呼喚著你過去,殊不知他就是要把你吃掉,inside有如一萬噸TNT般地在大轟炸。

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1398769710此時ㄧ個身影往龍口划過去,…………… 是…. ..是…..是為格,他要跳出來、他竟然跳出來要當第一屠龍手,他拿的是Surftech出的6’1” TL2 EPOXY,Epoxy就不會斷嗎?  傻傻搞不清楚!!!前幾天才斷一張firewire。

巨龍來了,屠龍手就位…….龍口張開……..我和阿志也張著口看著為格被龍口吞噬下去,接著他淹沒在TNT的大轟炸中了。太偉大了,屠龍手不一定要屠到龍而就是要這奮不顧身的勇氣才能成為真正的屠龍。之後為格又從龍尾划回龍首等待屠龍。受到為格的感召,我們也靠近龍首處等待屠龍,……..其實也是只有我靠近,阿志離龍首還是有段距離,至於豬肉榮,他是從頭到尾都沒下水。

後來浪拉的越來越大,平均每道浪都在一人半以上,龍首都在二人以上,當天最大還接近三人高,後來很多浪我都已經不潛越了,因為潛越完全無效,就丟版隨浪狂轟爛炸。總結這天我們沒屠到到真正的巨龍,中龍小龍到宰了不少,逮到好的約一人半二人高左右的浪可跑個一、二百米,那天算是豐收日,而且大家全身而退,讚。

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比較一下97/10/18的南澳,浪花整個差很多。

11/12(三)國父誕辰紀念日,阿布休假、阿秋請假、為格沒班、我沒差,四人ㄧ同坐上阿布的幸福號休旅車前往危險地帶,南澳。
陰雨的台北與頭城,到了南澳卻是豔陽。北邊吹來的風雨皆被山脈擋住了,南澳山谷如世外桃源獨獲陽光、佇立在雲霧之間。
停好車準備武器,沒忘了還要擦防曬油因為陽光很強。阿秋帶了二張武器,6’0”K board、6’4”local motion。
待續……….

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